Settle in dear Readers, this is a long one. Or, come back later with a large cup of hot tea ... (And if there is a problem with being able to view pictures, (there are alot), I recommend clicking on the link that will take you directly to the website)
"Om Mani Padme Hum". It is said that all the teachings of the Buddha are contained in this mantra and that reciting it can cleanse all negative karma. Maybe you are familar with it already. It is a Buddhist mantra of compassion and protection. We first learned of it by a shop keeper in the beautiful mountain village of Mcleod Ganj, Himachel, Northern India, about 2000 metres above sea level, the home of the Dali Lama and the Tibetan Government in exhile.
It was our first day in the village and we were wandering its windy streets and happened upon a beautiful store, filled with exquisite, colourful, hand painted mandalas. The women who owned the store was European, and she began asking the boys questions about how they liked India. Ben quickly announced his fear of the monkeys (we had just walked by a group of large ones, hanging from wires, eating bananas just like a human would. "Don`t look at them in the eyes, don't look at them in the eyes!!" Ben announced in a frenzy as he raced by). The women in the shop sympathised with him and told him she also felt the same way. She then proceeded to tell us a story of when she was travelling in Kashmir and walked up a beautiful, serene mountain to meditate. She left her group about 30 mins away. She began her practice, when she suddenly heard rustling around her. She opened her eyes and saw over a dozen, large, monkeys surrounding her - in a circle of sorts. (Both boys moved not a muscle as she continued her story with wonderful animated gestures). Her first instinct was fear of course, but being a practicing Buddhist for many years she began reciting "Om Mani Padme Hum", over and over to herself. "Om Mani Padme Hum ... Om Mani Padme Hum ... Om Mani Padme Hum..." She got up slowly, continuing to recite the mantra, not knowing how effective this would be but also knowing she had to get through them. Each time she looked around, more had gathered. The women walked slowly, reciting the mantra and like the parting of the red sea, the monkeys made a space for her to walk through them. Creative story telling or not, Ben was sold. We now have all learnt the mantra and Ben has a pendent with it engraved in Sanskrit. The boys learnt to recite it quickly at our visit to the Dalai Lama Temple, as they spun the Mani Wheels, or Prayer Wheels.
These Prayer Wheels, found everywhere where Tibetan Buddhism flourishes, are a device for spreading blessings and well being. Rolls of very thin paper, imprinted with many, many copies of the mantra, printed in an ancient Indian or Tibetan script, are wound around an axle in a protective container and spun around and around in a clockwise direction. True to spreading these teachings to all parts of the world, His Holiness the Dalai Lama has said that having the mantra on your computer works the same as a traditional prayer wheel. Since a computers hard drive spins hundreds of thousands of times an hour and can contain many copies of the mantra, anyone who wants to, can turn their computer into a prayer wheel! Goggle "digital prayer wheel" and give it a go. Make it a screensaver. You do not need to even chant the mantra, just looking at it spinning in ancient sanskrit has a powerful effect.
We have spent the last 5 days pretty close to heaven. It is a small town, where coloured buildings cling to the hillside and the vibe is laid back. Aside from the islands of Malaysia and Thailand, this is the first place since being away that I could settle in. There is an intense "at home" feeling here. The village is about 2 km long through windy, steep and narrow streets. Streets that are filled with Buddhist Monks, Tibetan refugees, Indians, Chinese and some travellers - like us. Some of them are here for a month, some longer. Some are studying Buddhism, Yoga or other healing arts. Maybe some just come and stay for the incredible views and the cheap lifestyle. $30 per day here will house you comfortably with a view over the mountains, feed you 3 meals a day, offer you a yoga class and perhaps a massage. You could do it for alot less too. Even though I feel like we are off the beaten path, there are people here from all over the world. Many come to volunteer with the Tibetan refugees. Some may come hoping to catch a glimpse of Richard Gere (being a dedicated Buddhist, he hangs out here alot I hear). There is real hippy vibe, no pretense at all. The boys are the only western kids we can see but they garner less attention here. This really does not even feel like India anymore. There are plenty of places selling real cashmere pashminas, and bronze buddhas, but no one is jumping out at you with a hard sell. Many of these stalls are run by quiet Tibetan women with big smiles and even bigger hearts. Bargaining with them does not feel right.
We have so many stories to tell of our time here. We awake each morning to steep rolling hills, backed by rugged mountains. Eagles soar by the dozens, right by our balcony. The sun makes its way above the mountain range around 7am, so this has been the boys alarm. I have awoken earlier, as I often do, to take in the silence and majesty of the dawn hours, when the village is just waking and morning rituals can be witnessed. We can see the entire town from our home here.
The boys have learnt about the unjust plight of the Tibetan people. How their country has been and continues to be torn apart by a Chinese Government determined to eradicate their culture, their entire way of life. So many questions I am unable answer from innocent minds who question this injustice in such a real, raw and simple way. Children are not satisfied with answers that contain politics. They see what's wrong and wonder why. Pure and simple. Why are the Chinese so intent on destroying the Tibetan people and driving them out of their home? We spent a long while in the Museum, reading about the history and the current situation. Fascinating. Tragic. Hopeful. All lead by a Dalai Lama who espouses no hatred, no anger and travels the world tirelessly spreading kindness, compassion and peace. "Om Mani Padme Hum". The children have learnt what is self-immolation. We have seen large posters all over the town, a memorial of sorts, with the 99 faces and names of those who have set themselves on fire in the name of protest. We have read their last words and shed tears. But the Tibetan people are strong and their determination to move on and to preserve their culture is a testament in part, to their strong connection with spirit.
We visited a Tibetan School here, set high into the rolling hills. This school has been operating since 1960 and has been one of our favourite memories of India so far. We were shown around the entire school and had a chance to interact with some of the children. Many children are brought here from Tibet by their parents so as to allow them a better chance of education. In most schools in Tibet, children are forced to learn in Mandarin, their mother tongue abandoned. In Temples, pictures of the Dalai Lama are forced down. The Tibetan people cannot openly practice their religion or they are punished, tortured or worse. These are just a few of the unforgivable ways these people are treated. So many Tibetan parents have sacrificed their children to the warm cradle of Northen India, so their children can have a future and grow up in the Buddhist Dharma, as is their human right. Children often do not see their parents for years at a time. The parents go back to Tibet, the few that can afford to relocate, do. Many children are orphans. But this school is full of life and happiness. The moment we stepped onto the grounds the beautiful, joyful sounds of singing children filled the space all around us. It seemed that their voices were echoing from the mountains behind. The sound filled my heart with joy. Everywhere we looked, there were children dancing, singing, studying, playing sports, laughing - all under the strick guidance though of their dedicated teachers.
We entered Grade 1 classrooms to be greeted with warm, interested, smart eyes. We watched as the seniors immersed themselves in sport. We visited the dormitories they call their home. Ben and Jordans eyes were opened when they saw the boys dorm. The iron bunks lined up in a row, single worn blankets, mildew covered walls and the one small locker that houses their entire worldy possessions. Looked more like a prison ward than a bedroom. But these children are well taken care of and given the best that is possible. The school operates from generous donations from all over the world. The staff are incredibly kind and warm, but disciplined with the children. They have to be. I asked about the winters there and what the children have to keep them warm. It gets cold in the foothills of the Himalayas and it snows alot in the winter months. It snowed up in the high mountains one evening we were there! Alot of the children get to leave the school over Christmas when it is closed. They go to family or foster families. But many have to remain. There is of course no central heating as we in Canada enjoy, and no waterproof clothing to keep the children dry when they play outside in the snow. Ben and I looked at each other and both had the same idea. How wonderful it would be to somehow get some gently used snowsuits to the school. I asked if this would be something that would be useful and was told that this would be an incredible gift to the children. A possible project for us when we return. (To our Canadian friends and family ... we may be calling on you to help support this!). We left the school with the children's voices and smiles still in our hearts with hopes to return. Ben has already mentioned coming back when he is grown. My hope is that he will...
It was difficult to say goodbye to Mcleod Ganj. The boys loved it here too. This is a special piece of the world. We meet some wonderful warm, generous people. We enjoyed fresh Momo's (dumplings) and delicious fruit lassis. We hiked to waterfalls, hung out in cafes and watched eagles, we had our palms read by an Indian "guru" on a hill. (This story deserves a whole blog post of its own!) We learnt about Tibetan Buddhism and began to understand the plight of the people. We saw harmony here. It is incredibly peaceful and this is written on the face of its residents, many who have lost limbs from frostbite from crossing the Himalayas on foot to seek refuge from a stolen home. Yet they continue to smile and I know their spirit is strong. They are the lucky ones, to be always in the living room of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and the monks who carry the dharma. Our time here will be treasured and each of us will carry very special memories, that will forever tie us somehow to this special village in the North Indian mountains.
Well once again Vic another incredible,enlightening and very warm heartening blog I was glued to every word and what beautiful photos that one almost felt the presence of being there. the cooler air would have been a refreshing change for you all and would have recharged your energies
Love you..Mum xxx
Reply
Victoria
22/9/2013 11:39:14 pm
Yes, the cooler air was a welcome relief. We should have stayed longer! 45 here in Delhi - my next post may not be filled with so much energy! xx
Reply
Britta
23/9/2013 11:55:23 pm
Wow! The boys look so happy. I know it hasn't been all sunshine and roses but what an experience! You are an inspiration to those of us who only dream about doing something like this. Thank you for sharing it with us. Britta
Reply
Victoria
25/9/2013 12:21:56 pm
Thanks Britta! Yes, for the most part the noys are very happy ... except when it comes time for schoolwork. This is a challenge, and precisely why school were invented!!
Reply
Sas
25/9/2013 12:28:20 pm
Hi guys ! Brilliant writing Vic and amazing photos ! I am so loving sharing your adventures…….. This one in particular……hard to explain really…it seems to trigger very strong emotional distant memories for me …. The prayer wheels and Om Mani Padme Hum. I can see why you are all so drawn to this remarkable place ! Be safe and well and happy… all of you . Loads of love and light coming your way !...... Talk soon… Sas xxx
Reply
Victoria
25/9/2013 12:32:29 pm
Have you been in this area Sas? Perhaps you have lived here in another life, or somewhere like it. It is said that this is why many people are drawn to India without really knowing why. Xx
Reply
Lisa
26/9/2013 05:37:51 am
Great post. I love the school and children. I'm on board with collecting winter gear. I have a lot of contacts so you let me know how you want to do this and I'm all in!!! You and the boys look great!
xo
Lisa
Reply
Lisa Boulay
26/9/2013 10:51:09 pm
So wonderful to read about your collective experiences and to see your excellent pictures. Count me in regarding the snow suit project! Be well dear friend.
Reply
Your comment will be posted after it is approved.
Leave a Reply.
Enter in your email address AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE
and get an email when we post something new!