We made the trip to Amritsar in the state of Punjab specifically to see one thing - the incredible Golden Temple.A Sikh gurdwara, completed in 1784, it seems that this is not on the tourist path, unlike the Taj Mahal. Admittedly it is out of the way, but for us, it was a logical stopover on our way to Himachal Pradesh and up to McLeodganj, home of the Dalai Lama.
I have spoken alot about heat since being here in India. Well, I now have a new benchmark for what the body can take as far as bearing the heat goes. The moment we stepped out of the airport in Amritsar and headed towards our taxi, I almost passed out. More humid here, I am not sure. But different - not the dry desert heat that we had almost become used to, this was horridly oppressive. We made our way by beaten up taxi in the firey afternoon sun with the AC bearly sputtering any relief. We came upon detour after detour on our way to our hotel and snailed through the horridly conjested and noisy streets. If there is one thing I could remove from India, it would be every single horn in every single car, rickshaw and motorbike. The sounds, which are unending, pierce into the eardrums and shatter ones nerves. (Especially if one has not done ones yoga practice that morning!) Over an hour later, nerves frazzled, body temperature soaring, we came to a stop outside the Golden Temple complex. Our hotel must be close. Alas, I was wrong. The driver had brought us to the wrong hotel. I pointed this out, trying to keep my cool, literally and figuratively, when I caught a glimpse of it in the distance - over 500 metres away. I gave our driver a questioning look, trying not to appear exasperated. The kids were nattering constantly, like annoying bees around my head "Mom ... Mom!! Whats going on, its so hot ... I can't do this Mom. Mom!! Their voices coupled with the deafening and constant honking and crush of people was undoing me. We had been up since 4:30am to catch an early flight, that ended up being delayed by over 2 hours. We only just made our connection in Delhi. We were all totally exhausted. Jordan awoke that morning in tears, crying that he could not get up, that he wanted to sleep for "a hundred years". I had an inkling that the day ahead may be a challenging one. Our driver began gesturing us to walk, him empty handed, us loaded down in the heat with what seemed like three times our bags actual weight. "WOULD IT NOT HURT YOU TO HELP CARRY SOMETHING!" I yelled at him silently. "Just here ... Just here!" he kept saying as he lead us down laneways and through the crush of traffic and people. It was not "just here" it was far, very far. I felt rage rise up inside of me while the kids continued to yell out their complaints to me, as if I could do something to ease the situation. I hated India at this point. All of it. It was all pointless - the noise, the people, the smells, their ridiculous rituals and their dam heat. I wanted to yell, scream, cry ... right outside the gates of the Golden Temple. Right in the middle of the thousands of worshippers who were graciously making their way in. Calmness, peacefulness and wisdom in their eyes. And me, almost a fully fledged basket case amongst them, barely able to move another step. But something carried me on, maybe it was Guru Ram Das, maybe Yogi Bhajan, maybe just knowing that I had no choice. After what seemed like hours, but was only really about 10 minutes, we had arrived finally at our hotel. I looked up and saw filthy windows and years of dried up pigeon poop everywhere. I asked to see our room, the one I had reserved and my heart sank. It was tiny, cramped, musty and dirty. No windows. Hot. I could not do this tonight. I asked for the best room they had, which I knew would still not be good, but it had to be better than this. I did not care how many ruppees I had to pay for it. The thought crossed my mind to find another hotel, but could not navigate the streets again. We were given their "Executive Delux", and this one at least had a window and was a little bigger. AC worked. I could see the tip of the Golden Temple through years of filth and pigeon poop that covered the oustide window. Pigeons crashed the window constantly. This would have to do. I collapsed on the bed and the kids navigated the old TVs remote control through the static.
After a couple of hours rest, I gained some composure, got cleaned up and we all realised that we had not eaten for hours. I looked at the dusty, stained menu on the bedside table and reluctantly browsed its contents. I did not want to know where this food may originate, but the thought of going anywhere to search for a meal was too daunting. And besides, I wanted to be at the Golden Temple for sunset, just an hour away. So, I ordered some room service and hoped for the best. The thing about India is that it never ceases to surprise. In 20 mins, a meal fit for a king arrived at our door. A five star meal in a one star hotel. Delicious Vegetable Tandoori with Paneer and the most incredible Dahl Makani I have tasted. Crispy, fresh butter Naan. We devoured our meal and set off, refreshed, to the temple.
Upon entering the Golden Temple compound, you feel the energy here immediately. Calming, beautiful, profoundly spiritual energy. True to Sikkisms inclusive nature, everyone is welcome here. The four entrances to the Holy shrine, from directions, signify that people from every walk of life are equally welcome. Proper dress and a covered head is expected. Shoes must be taken off and the feet must be washed. I have to say here, that pictures of the temple do not do it justice. It needs to be seen with naked eyes. The style is a blend of Hindu and Islamic. The golden dome is said to be gilded with 750 kg of gold and represents an inverted lotus flower - a symbol of a Sikhs aim to live a pure life. Chanting poured out the loud speakers that surrounded the holy lake. Chants that I recognised from my study, practice and teaching of Kundalini Yoga, (which came through the Sikh faith and espouses many of its virtures.) As opposed to other temples we have visited, this one felt familar somehow. I felt connected.
We arrived just as the sun was setting and the low light threw a deep glow to the temple. We made our way inside and spent some time enjoying the moving chanting that fills the space both inside and out. Hundreds of dedicated worshippers, praying, meditating and bringing offerings. I wanted to just sit smack in the middle of them and close my eyes too. I wanted to chant. I wanted to be still. However, travelling with two children, as wonderful as it is, does not always allow these luxuries of stillness and of going within. I have to get up very early in the morning to indulge in that kind of space. We made our way to the walkways surrounding the lake and there we sat. The boys sensed that I needed some quiet, still time - and they sat patiently with me, taking it all in. They were also moved by the awe inspiring sight in front if them and were very respectful. They let people take their picture. We were the only Europeans from what I could tell. They respected my wishes to remain until dark, so we were there over two hours. I would have stayed for hours more, but to two pre-teen boys who have been dragged through temple after temple, I did not want to push my luck! My soul was satisfied. The days challenges melted away. I loved India once again.
Beautiful writing, thanks for the adventure, felt every bit! Much love x
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Victoria
18/9/2013 02:48:52 pm
Thanks my friend. Can't wait to see you in Nepal in a few days! Xx
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Downtown Lisa Brown
18/9/2013 08:54:17 am
Exhausting!!! But pretty impressive.
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Victoria
18/9/2013 02:50:53 pm
Yes, we seem to have run into more and more of these exhausting days recently. Almost time for the ocean once again!
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Chantale
18/9/2013 09:42:01 am
What a brave, crazy and wonderful adventure..one you will carry dearly in your hearts for all the days of your lives! We think of you often..pretty much every time we walk out the front door!
I'm impressed to see all your wonderful outfits Vic..wow, you sure managed to fit a lot in that one little carry on bag..
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Victoria
18/9/2013 02:52:35 pm
It's amazing what a few scarves can achieve ! We miss you too!
Victoria, you write so and your pictures are outstanding. Madelyn and I love to read our posts, we eagerly await each one, snuggle in before bed time,and read through your trials and tribulations, almost as if we are there with you! Keep writing, and having such an amazing time! With Love Marlene amd Madelyn
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Victoria
18/9/2013 02:54:21 pm
This warms me to hear! Thanks SO MUCH to you both for coming on the ride with us xx
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Josee
18/9/2013 12:24:40 pm
Hello my fearless friend!!
I have been just amazed by all your posts. For starters the courage you have for even attempting this journey and then following through with all of the planning and logistics of where to go and finding your way, keeping yourself and the kids safe, attempting to school them and taking them on amazing adventures...A-MA-ZING!!! I love how you share the good, the bad, the ugly and the awesomeness along the way. You are a very talented writer and have an amazing ability to take all your readers along with you. You simultaneously make me want to travel with my kids and see all of the beauty our planet has to offer and also make me appreciate all of the comforts of home that we so take for granted. Keep going my friend, you've got this!!
You are an inspiration to us all. Sending you much love, peace, joy and light.
xo
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Victoria
20/9/2013 02:10:10 am
I am getting so much pleasure from sharing it all! There have been many super challenging moments, usually interwoven into each day. Thank you for your continuing to move me on... Some days I want to find the first flight home and put it all I the "too hard" basket. And yes...Please do appreciate EVERYTHING you have. It is rough out here in places.. I cannot thank you enough my good friend!! Much love xx
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Jodi and Teagan
19/9/2013 10:04:13 am
Hey - loving your stories! We were at the Spencerville Fair this past weekend and they were charging $6 for a chinsy camel ride! Would rather have had the desert setting, I think!! Sending warm wishes from all your Glebe friends, too!
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Victoria
20/9/2013 02:13:00 am
I love the Spencerville Fair!! Great to hear from you Jodi! Xx
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Linda
20/9/2013 02:14:46 am
Hiii Victoria,
What a great writer you are! You had me laughing and crying! The taxi driver placating you reminded me of what we say to our children when they're small and tired and we're tired. It reminds us that we can make it and to keep going when we're ready to drop and others have that confidance in us.. You will laugh one day (at least I hope you will, please don't be offended) but, the guy was probably thinking "I'm tired and hot, and if that woman is strong enough to get here with TWO BOYS she strong enough to carry her own luggage!" I hope that you're in air-conditioning when you read this.
LOL,
Lots of love and strength to endure that heat,
Linda
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Victoria
20/9/2013 02:19:23 am
We are in a/c as I write - never taken for granted ever again!! Thanks Linda xx
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Maureen
20/9/2013 02:23:08 am
Victoria.... You are so awesome, you get down, dust off and get back up again, all without letting your anger get the better of you, and keeping it all together for your boys. How much of an insperation are you to them and to us.
I am so happy you found some peace at the end of a long hard journey to the temple.
These photos and journal are so wonderful to read, its like i am there with you all.
Take care and bless you you all.
Maureen xxx
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Victoria
20/9/2013 02:25:28 am
Thank you Maureen! It really helps to know we have support from home! And unfortunately, truth be known, my boys have seen the darkest sides of me on the odd day. It is difficult to hide and dust off completely. We are all human and I think these are the lessons we are learning the most!. Love to you xx
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Grant
20/9/2013 02:26:55 am
Wow!
Amazing!
What a joy to read and such lovely pictures of all of you and the temple!!
What a great adventure you guys are on!
Enjoy your journey North!!
Safe travels!
grant
ps. apologies for all the exclamation marks but I think it is justified! :)
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Victoria and Ben
20/9/2013 02:30:00 am
Love the North...mountains incredible. More soon!
Thanks for staying in touch (from Ben)
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Sas
20/9/2013 02:32:27 am
Hello you three intrepid travellers !... I feel your pain ! God Vic …. How have you learnt to internalise that eruptive Lynes temper ? I bet that glass of wine and a catch up is sounding better every day !! All that aside…The Golden Temple looks amazing…… I can feel the energy and peace radiating from the photos !.....And the food platter looked bloody good too !...... I am very proud of you Ben and Jordan !.... Be very kind to your Mum… she’s a legend! Sending you love hugs and endless cool breezes ! xxx Sas
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Victoria
20/9/2013 02:40:50 am
Thanks big sister! So great to hear from you! Sadly, that Lynes temper has been on display more than usual these past days...so my kids may say I'm a legend alright, just not in the kind way you implied!
Can't wait to see you next month in NZ! Xx
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Karen
20/9/2013 02:45:06 am
Hi Vicky,
Your blog and pictures brought tears to my eyes. It brought it all back to me even from 51 years ago I can still see the golden temple and feel the energy it gave.It was one of the incredibly beautiful things I have seen.
Love, Karen
xxxooo
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Victoria
20/9/2013 02:48:29 am
Wow...that response almost brought ME to tears!
"Travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer" xx
Hi Vic..As each blog comes in and I share all these wonderful .. fulfilling awe inspiring experiences of the amazing and incredible sights you are all seeing my heart is so happy with pride for you that you were brave enough to do the journey on your own with the boys.I know there are days that are very tough to get through with the high temps..noise and the sometimes heartwrenching sights of extreme sadness and poverty that is present each and every day in India. Your writing is incredible an author in the making !! I mean it Vic..You and the boys will back memories to cherish and inspire for many years to come.
Love you and miss you heaps..Mum xxx
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Victoria
22/9/2013 11:37:15 pm
Thanks my dear Mum. Your unwavering support of this from inception until now has meant so much! Cant wait to see you! xx
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